Not all safes are built the same—and the differences aren’t always obvious at first glance. In this guide, we break down how to properly evaluate a safe using an “outside-in” approach, starting with steel thickness and construction quality. From why thinner safes became popular to how welding and body design impact both security and fire protection, this walkthrough gives you the tools to make a smart, informed decision. Whether you’re shopping entry-level or high-security, understanding what’s behind the paint matters.
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Episode 36 Topics
4:43: The Outside-In Approach
8:44: 12 Gauge & 14 Gauge Safes Became Prevalent with Box Stores
10:00: Manufacturers that Traditionally Offered Heavy Safes Are Moving Away
11:04: We Always Recommend a 10 Gauge Body to Family & Friends
11:38: Welding Techniques
14:50: Poorly Welded Import-Safes
16:42: Start by Asking About the Thickness of Steel
20:40: Welding & Body Construction Impacts Fire Protection
24:00: Buying the Safe that’s Right for You
Episode 36 Discussion Synopsis
4:43: The Outside-In Approach
When we evaluate a safe, we use what we call an “outside-in” approach. That means you start by looking at the outside of the safe and work your way inward. This helps you understand how secure it really is.
The first thing to look at is steel thickness. In the safe industry, steel thickness is often measured in gauges, which can be confusing. Here’s the key rule: the lower the gauge number, the thicker the steel. A higher number means thinner steel.
Most entry-level safes today use 12-gauge steel, which is less than 1/8 inch thick. More and more manufacturers are using 14-gauge steel, which is even thinner. When a safe doesn’t list the steel gauge at all, it’s usually safe to assume it’s thin—sometimes as thin as 16-gauge. That’s why many people think “a safe is a safe,” even when security levels vary a lot.
As steel gets thicker, it becomes harder to bend into one solid piece. That’s why truly high-security safes either use thicker plate steel, welded panels, or double-wall construction with layers of steel filled with a concrete-style material.
For a quality residential gun safe, we recommend looking for 10-gauge steel, 3/16-inch steel, or a double-wall body with a plate steel door. That’s where real value and security start.
8:44: 12 Gauge & 14 Gauge Safes Became Prevalent with Box Stores
Thirty years ago, most safe makers didn’t use thin steel like 12- or 14-gauge. That changed when big box stores entered the market. They wanted lower prices and lighter safes that employees could move more easily. Thin steel helps keep costs down, and most buyers don’t realize the difference.
The problem? Lighter safes are easier to steal. A good safe should be heavy and hard to move. That’s why we recommend 10-gauge or 3/16-inch steel for real security.
10:00: Manufacturers that Traditionally Offered Heavy Safes Are Moving Away
Many manufacturers used to build heavy, high-quality safes, but that has changed over time. For example, Cannon was once an American-made gun safe built in California and a true competitor to Liberty. Both brands were known for strong, well-built safes.
Today, most major manufacturers no longer build heavy safes with 3/16-inch steel bodies. Instead, many have switched to thinner 12- or 14-gauge steel.
One big exception is Fort Knox. They’ve actually gone the opposite direction. Their safes are heavier and stronger than they were 30 years ago. The lightest Fort Knox safe still uses a 10-gauge steel body, and their entry-level Spartan model even uses 7-gauge steel. What makes it Fort Knox’s entry-level safe is that the Spartan has less standard fire protection.
11:04: We Always Recommend a 10 Gauge Body to Family & Friends
When family or friends ask us what to buy, we usually recommend a safe with a 10-gauge steel body and a solid plate door. An 11-gauge safe is what we’d call middle of the road. Anything 12-gauge or thinner is considered entry level.
That said, steel thickness isn’t the only thing that matters. Not all 12-gauge safes are built the same. Some have much better construction and are far stronger than other safes with the same steel thickness. Build quality makes a big difference.
11:38: Welding Techniques
Let’s talk about welding, because how a safe is welded matters just as much as the steel itself.
Liberty uses a roll-form construction, which sets them apart from many other brands. In this design, most of the safe’s body is formed from a single piece of steel instead of six separate panels welded together. Fewer seams mean fewer weak spots. Liberty also keeps U.S. steel inside the safe, where it’s protected from rust.
Liberty’s welding is extremely strong. In one test, a 1,000-pound concrete block was dropped from 100 feet onto a Liberty safe, and the welds didn’t break. That shows how well the metal is fused together. When done right, welds can be the strongest part of a safe.
Many entry-level safes use tack or stitch welding, where small welds are spaced inches apart. These weak welds can break easily. We’ve seen safes where welds failed just from hitting the side with a hammer.
Liberty uses robotic welding, even on entry-level models. In pull tests, the steel tears before the weld fails. That level of welding strength makes a big difference in real-world security.
14:50: Poorly Welded Import-Safes. The Importance of Quality.
Just because a safe has an American brand name doesn’t mean it’s built in the U.S. Many well-known brands don’t actually make safes. They use a trusted name and have the safes built overseas, often in China. If they don’t closely check quality, manufacturers may cut corners to save money. That’s where poorly welded safes become common.
We’ve seen imported safes arrive with welds already cracking from shipping. That’s why looks can be misleading. Don’t buy the idea of a safe—buy real quality.
Do your research, ask an expert, and learn what matters. Once you understand how safes are built, you’ll start noticing quality differences in everything you buy.
16:42: Start by Asking About the Thickness of Steel
When shopping for a safe, start with three simple questions.
1. How thick is the steel?
Always ask about steel thickness or gauge. Many sellers won’t know, especially at big box stores. Steel thickness tells you a lot about security, weight, and value. If you know the gauge, experts can quickly place the safe into a security class.
2. How is it welded?
Welding quality matters. Look for safes that are fully and consistently welded, inside and out. Roll-form construction, like Liberty uses, or fully welded designs like Fort Knox, are good signs. Even for entry-level safes, quality welding makes a big difference.
3. Where is it built?
Where a safe is made often tells you how it’s welded. Imported safes are more likely to use weak tack or stitch welds, while U.S.-built safes tend to have stronger construction.
If you focus on these basics, you’ll make a smarter investment and work with a company that can actually answer your questions.
20:40: Welding & Body Construction Impacts Fire Protection
When people talk about steel thickness and security, they often forget fire protection. But the two are closely connected.
Thin metal heats up fast in a fire. As it heats, it expands, bends, and twists—just like a soda can in flames. We’ve seen lightweight safes after real house fires, and the bodies and doors are badly warped. When that happens, the door can pull away from the frame and break the seal.
Once the seal fails, smoke, soot, and dirty air get inside. Fire tests don’t always show this because they use clean, hot air—not the thick smoke from burning furniture and household materials.
At a certain point, insulation alone isn’t enough. If the safe isn’t strongly welded and built with heavy steel, fire protection suffers. A heavy door, solid frame, and quality welding help the safe hold its shape.
A well-built safe stays tighter, cooler, and cleaner inside—protecting your valuables from both fire and break-ins.
24:00: Buying the Safe that’s Right for Your Needs
We’re excited to keep working on this because our main goal is simple: help people choose the right safe. Not everyone needs the most expensive safe, and sometimes a lighter or lower-cost option makes sense. What matters most is knowing what you’re buying.
We don’t want people storing valuable or irreplaceable items in a safe that won’t perform the way they expect. That’s where education comes in. Our favorite part of this job is showing people the real differences in safe quality and helping them make an informed decision based on their needs.
The best feeling is when someone leaves knowing they bought the right safe for them. That’s a win for us. And even if you’re not buying from us, we’re always happy to answer questions and help you understand what to look for.