When it comes to protecting our valuables, fire ratings can be one of the most confusing parts of shopping for a safe. We’ve all seen the word fireproof thrown around, but the truth is, no safe is completely fireproof—only fire resistant. Some hold up well in real-world fires, while others fall short of their advertised ratings. The difference comes down to construction, materials, and whether the safe was truly tested.
In Safe Space Episode 20, we’ll break down what fire ratings really mean, share real examples of safes that survived fires (and some that didn’t), and give you practical tips for choosing and even improving the fire protection of your own safe.
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Episode 20 Discussion Questions
1:25: What makes a safe fireproof?
7:22: What states have you personally seen go through fires and how did they hold up?
16:07: How come two safe can have a 30 minute fire rating, but one is better than the other?
21:34: I'm looking for a safe with them with the best fire rating. What should I get?
24:41: Is there a way I can improve my safe’s fire protection?
Episode 20 Discussion Question Synopses
1:25: What makes a safe fireproof?
We’ve all seen safes advertised as fireproof. But here’s the truth: no safe is 100% fireproof. What they really are is fire resistant. The word “fireproof” gets used so often because that’s what people search for online—but in reality, it’s misleading.
So what does fire resistance really mean, and how do we know which safes actually perform in a fire? Let’s break it down together.
Why Safes Can’t Be Fireproof
Steel itself resists heat, which is why even the most basic safe — a simple steel shell — offers some protection. But once steel gets hot enough, it acts like a heat sink and transfers that heat straight into the safe.
That’s why manufacturers add insulation. Sheetrock, for example, contains moisture that turns into steam under heat, cooling the inside. Concrete-based fills work in a similar way. The type of insulation—and how it’s installed—makes a huge difference in how long a safe can resist a blaze.
Why Construction Quality Matters
It’s not just about materials. Build quality is just as important. Think about tossing a soda can into a fire — it crumples almost instantly. Thin, lightweight safes (like 14-gauge steel with spot welds) can react the same way in extreme heat.
The thicker the steel, the stronger the welds, and the tighter the construction, the better a safe holds up. Unfortunately, most people only look at the sticker on the door — the “fireproof” rating the manufacturer claims. But after decades of seeing real safes go through real fires, we know those ratings aren’t always reliable.
Why Some Safes Perform Better Than Others
Take Fort Knox safes as an example. On paper, you might find another safe with the same fire rating, the same insulation, and even the same specs. But Fort Knox builds theirs differently:
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100% continuous welds inside and out, so seams don’t split as the steel expands in heat.
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High-quality sheetrock insulation that’s stud-welded into place, not just glued.
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Reinforced doors and plate steel that hold firm when temperatures rise.
In fire testing, we’ve seen spot-welded imports literally split open. Meanwhile, Fort Knox holds together because of hidden strengths in its design.
Don’t Be Fooled by Weak Spots
Another issue we see all the time is partial insulation. A safe might look solid from the outside, but open the door and you’ll find bare sections with no protection. In a fire, heat will find those weak spots quickly.
And here’s another myth: exterior hinges make a safe less secure. In reality, the world’s highest-rated safes all use external hinges. They actually protect fire ratings, since manufacturers don’t have to cut through insulation to install them. Plus, locking bolts on all four sides keep the door secure even if the hinges are removed.
The Bottom Line
There’s no such thing as a fireproof safe. Every safe has limits. But some are built with stronger materials, better welds, and smarter designs that make them far more fire resistant.
When you’re shopping, don’t just trust the sticker. Look deeper into the construction. Ask about insulation, welding techniques, and reinforcements. That’s how we know whether a safe will truly protect what matters most.
Whiler there are some very fire-resistant safes available.
These extremely durable safes are the ones often dubbed fireproof safes because they can withstand extreme temperatures for such a long period of time. So, how do you pick the right fireproof safe for your needs?
7:22: What safes have you personally seen go through fires and how did they hold up?
At Northwest Safe, we’ve seen many safes tested in real fires. Some perform well, others don’t. The truth is, no safe is indestructible—but construction quality makes all the difference. Let’s look at a few real-world examples and what we can learn from them.
A Liberty Colonial in a Garage Fire
One safe we keep in our showroom is a Liberty Colonial — an entry-level model with a 45-minute fire rating and a 12-gauge body. When its owner’s garage caught fire, the safe endured over an hour of flames at more than 1,200 degrees.
The results weren’t pretty. The door and body warped, and heat poured in through the hinge pockets. The guns inside were salvageable but covered in soot and smoke damage. They had to be refinished, which was frustrating for the owner.
Did the safe do its job? Yes — for its price and rating, it bought time. But if you’re protecting $20,000 in valuables, relying on a $1,500 safe with a thin body and modest rating isn’t a wise long-term plan.
Why Better Construction Matters
We’ve also seen stronger models, like Champion and Superior Master safes, go through fires. With thicker 10-gauge steel, plate doors, and external hinges, they held up much better. Higher-quality construction helps keep flames out longer.
High-end safes take protection even further. American Security’s BFX line, built with DryLight concrete insulation and multiple steel layers, became well known during the California Camp Fire for how well it performed in brutal conditions.
And then there’s Graffunder. In one case, a customer’s home was reduced to rubble, yet his Graffunder stood untouched. Inside, everything was perfectly preserved. Its thick steel, rigid body, and tight door fit sealed out the heat and soot entirely.
A Surprising Survivor
Sometimes accessories make the difference. One Liberty Premium 20 with a 75-minute fire rating sat in a log home that burned to the ground. The fire burned so hot — over 2,000 degrees—that most of the safe’s contents were destroyed.
But the owner had stored cash inside Liberty’s Cool Pocket accessory on the door. That little $25 add-on saved tens of thousands of dollars. It’s a good reminder that layers of protection matter.
A home fire ripped through a log cabin, destroying photos and family heirlooms in its wake. Luckily, a Cool Pocket saved $27K in cash.
The Real Lesson
Every time we see a safe pulled from a fire, one thing is clear: the better the construction, the better your chances of protecting what matters most. Thicker steel, tighter door gaps, continuous welds, and more insulation always make the difference.
And here’s something we’ve noticed: after a fire or a break-in, no one ever downgrades their safe. They always upgrade to more security and fire protection. Why? Because once you see the limits of fire ratings, you realize your safe truly is your last line of defense.
So ask yourself: if your home burned down tomorrow, would your current safe be enough? If not, it might be time to invest in one that will.
16:07: How come two safe can have a 30 minute fire rating, but one is better than the other?
When you’re shopping for a safe, one of the first things you’ll notice is the fire rating. You’ll see stickers that say “60 minutes at 1,200 degrees” or even “two-hour fire rated.” But here’s the problem: in the safe industry, there’s no set standard for fire testing. That means many of those ratings aren’t as trustworthy as they seem.
No Standard Testing Across the Industry
Unlike other industries that have improved testing over time, the safe industry has actually gone backwards. Thirty years ago, more safes were tested by third parties. Today, most are not—especially imported models.
Instead, many manufacturers look at what’s common in the market, copy those specs, and slap on a fire-rating sticker. No actual testing. Just marketing. That’s why you’ll find two safes, both rated at 60 minutes, that perform very differently in real-world fires.
A Real Comparison: Liberty vs. Cannon
We’ve torn down safes to see what’s really inside. One example is a Cannon safe rated at 60 minutes compared to a Liberty safe with the same rating. On paper, they look equal. But once we pulled out the insulation, the difference was obvious:
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Liberty’s insulation was consistent and filled the body.
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Cannon’s insulation was thinner and incomplete.
On top of that, Liberty welds their seams solid from end to end, while Cannon’s welds were patchy. These hidden details matter far more than the sticker on the door.
Who Actually Tests Safes?
If you’re looking for a truly reliable fire rating, check for third-party testing.
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UL Fire Ratings (Underwriters Laboratories) are considered the gold standard. UL tests at higher temperatures than most “gun safe” ratings and includes explosion and drop tests. If you see a UL-listed fire rating, you know it’s been through serious trials.
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Intertek is another legitimate testing company, used by American Security.
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ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) has been used by Champion for independent fire testing.
These groups provide real verification—not just a manufacturer’s guess.
The Ramp-Up Factor
Even when safes are tested, the way the test is run can change the results. Some factories drag out the “ramp-up time”—how long it takes to bring the oven up to full temperature. That means the safe doesn’t face real heat until much later in the test.
By contrast, American Security reaches full heat in about eight minutes, and Liberty in about ten. Faster ramp-up times create a much more realistic simulation of an actual house fire.
Independent Tests Reveal the Truth
One of the best examples of honest testing comes from American Security. On their website, they share results from independent comparisons where multiple safes—from 60-minute models to “two-hour” rated models—were put through the same test.
The results were eye-opening: not a single competitor’s safe met its advertised rating. In some cases, a so-called two-hour safe performed worse than a one-hour safe. It proves how misleading those stickers can be.
The Bottom Line
Most safes on the market have never been truly fire tested. Manufacturers assign ratings based on what they think will sell, not on proven performance. That’s why we always encourage our customers to ask:
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Was this safe tested by a third party?
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What temperature was it tested at, and for how long?
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How fast was the oven ramp-up?
If you want a safe that will truly protect your valuables in a fire, don’t rely on the sticker. Dig deeper into who did the testing and how it was done.
And if you have questions, give us a call—we’ve seen the difference firsthand and can help you sort through the confusion.
21:34: I'm looking for a safe with them with the best fire rating. What should I get?
When it comes to fire protection, not all safes are created equal. A TL or TRTL-rated safe is built with far more material than even a top-of-the-line residential gun safe, like a Liberty Presidential or Magnum. But here’s the catch—not every TL safe is fire rated.
If you want the best fire protection available, we’d point you toward American Security’s CF or CFX safes. These are rated for two hours at 1,800 degrees, thanks to 3–4 inches of dense poured concrete in the walls and doors. That thickness keeps the safe rigid, prevents warping, and gives unmatched strength against both fire and attacks.
For most homeowners, the challenge is weight. TL and TRTL safes often weigh several thousand pounds, which can be too much for a residential floor. If that’s the case, American Security’s BF and BFX series are our go-to choices. Built with commercial design principles, they feature half-inch plate doors, multiple layers of steel, and poured concrete-based insulation.
In short, if your home can handle the weight, nothing beats a TL safe for fire protection. But if you need something more practical, the BF or BFX line delivers incredible fire resistance for residential use.
From entry level to high-security safes, we share out top picks for fire-resistant safes.
24:41: Is there a way I can improve my safe’s fire protection?
When it comes to fire safety, layers make all the difference. Where we place our safe in the home matters, but adding extra protection inside and around it is just as important.
One simple way to add a layer is with a fire box. These small, sealed containers—like FireKing SureSeal—are inexpensive but powerful. By placing sensitive items like documents, cash, or family heirlooms inside a fire box and then inside your safe, you get double protection. In fact, we’ve seen tests where a dollar bill in a fire box survived far better than one left in just an envelope.
Placement inside your safe also matters. Heat rises, so store your most important items low and away from the door. That simple step can help shield them when temperatures spike.
We can even add outside layers. For example, leaning sheetrock against the sides of your safe or surrounding it with cinder blocks can buy you more time in a fire. Some people even throw fire blankets over their safes for another barrier.
Just like with security, fire protection comes down to layers. The more you add, the better chance your valuables have of surviving.